SWED- EN JUICY..get it?

New Hot Curl Owner Daniel sent me these videos that he and his friend Jakob shot..Fukin cool stuff..they seem to have a lot of stoke and they sure have fun. I am still waiting for this kind of gloomy weather to remove all the fair weather surfers from our spot. Check this out.
I am going to plan a trip to Sweden, hope we can get a bunch of guy to go, show up one day, rush the spot and freak them out...Thanks, Daniel.

THANKFUL FOR...WHAT OTHERS GOT.

Again, I've missed the window. I got soggy leftovers, sloppy drool. I went in the rain, thinking that it could've been the small opening that makes a session that I could talk about for a few weeks.

SWEDISH HOT CURLS pt.2

My auction ends, I get an email from a guy in Sweden saying that he was interested in my board, or boards. He wants them sent to Sweden? We email back and forth regarding the hassle of packing and shipping. At first, I thought he was going to say that he would be traveling to LA and he would like to pick them up..I tell him that I was hesitant, really because I thought he was pulling my leg..I mean who surfs in Sweden? Daniel does...we start chatting and he sends me some pics from his home-break, that he surfs almost 200 days a year. Faaacck...he surfs more than I do and he lives in Sweden. He seemed like a really cool guy, but I still give him the rundown that I won't ship boards until I get the money and it has cleared. I bring the boards down to BING, which is now factory down in Carson. I have to arrange a special Saturday meeting, so they can be packed before the shipper (MAP CARGO) picks them up. Anyone needing or wanting to ship a board overseas, should have these guys take care of it, they packed the boards unreal, arranged for the shipper to pick up and took care of the international waybill...a whole bunch of stuff that would make doing these type of shipments a total pain in the ass, made it totally painless.

SWEDISH HOT CURLS

I needed to lighten my load, unload a few boards..times are tough and I have not been surfing these boards. I tried to get in the mindset that someone who was going to use them, should have them. I listed them on an auction site for awhile, probably too high of a price because I didn't get much action. Then a few calls from interested looky-loos wanting me to do all the leg work. "Not interested," I'd say, to many demands. Then I'd list them at a reasonable price and the demands got more insane. I tried once more, thinking I'd try to give people the benefit of the doubt, which is rare for me. The auction ended, I figured, fuck it...I'll keep em....45 minutes later, I get an email from a guy claiming he's from Sweden, wanting my boards. Yeah, right... Here's a pic of the girls- 1967 G&S Hot Curls.

THE COVE

This is a killer shot that Craig Ferre sent me..He has a bunch of cool shots that I will post in the next few days. Shit has been so busy that I missed the entire demolition down at the spot. I feel like I missed all the action, winter is always the best time of year there. The waves always seem to get better and the crowd thins out..you don't have to worry about losing your board and de-shinning a 6 year old, then get yelled at by everyone because you lost your board. Not like that ever happens to me.

The last 8 weeks I've had to work weekends and also spent my only free time packing and getting two of my vintage boards shipped out to SWEDEN..whaaat? There's actually really good surf in Sweden. I will post some more photos of that soon too, followed by the story of their travels to the Baltic Sea.

MY MAT

This one's for Surfsister- that's my dad holding the dog (Suki our shih-tzu), me coming in with the mat at the breakwater. It has to be 1976. I did the mat thing, then went "half-man." I started surfing about two years prior to this pic but they were blackballing and I needed to get my grades up before my dad bought me my first board. He's gotta be checking out the booty.

SUMMER GUARD- ASS CHEWING

I lost my board last week, my big Zephyr tandem, went to ride the nose and the tail lifted out of the water and it bounced for 46 yards up onto the shore, right into this little girls shins..took her down. I won't go into the rest of the story, of my greeting on the beach by all the do-gooders, but after it was all settled, I went to pay a little visit to the lifeguard tower to ask WTF he was doing? I had been watching the tower for about 45 minutes, thinking he was going to BLACKBALL because it was a warm day..but the water was cold. There were very few people in the water, but I don't know why there was no designated swim surf area- usually the guards will cone and flag the area for "swimmer safety." Since I fell out in the surfing area and my board bobbed and popped all the way to shore, felt like it wasn't really all my fault- maybe it was. I still went and chewed some ass, because the last thing I wanted to do was hurt someone, but it was a surfing area. It's not like I was surfing in the swimming area.