Thursday, December 8, 2011

HAPPY HOLIDAYS..


It's been awhile since I've posted, lots of shit happening. Some good, some bad..but, those are stories for another time. I've been looking through old family photos and I had to post this one. It's my mom and dad in happy times. They divorced..but this looks like they were having fun. Central Park NYC-1960.

Monday, August 15, 2011

ENDLESS SUMMER

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Monday, July 11, 2011

The Coast Guard kicks ass...


Im just looking through my old photos, came across the shots of the Chetco River. It was the calmest bar on the north coast. This day topped out at 25'. The boat is 45' so that looks like easily like 25'-30' face. We used to take the boat out, sit it in the surf line and let it roll over. That was the longest 6 seconds of my life. This was one of the happiest times of my life because I would work 10 hours during the day, then have off the afternoons to surf with another Malibu person that got stationed there. We had some of the best surf in Brooking history (according to the locals). I look at this picture often, imagine going right, bottom turn under the screw.

Friday, July 1, 2011

LADIES & GENTLEMEN, May I present the PRESIDENT OF THE UNITED STATES


That's not really the president, it's my dad and his dad, my grandfather, chilling after a longboard session at Malibu. Looking closely at my dad, he has a little Obama going on..

Saturday, June 18, 2011

THIS IS WHAT I DREAM OF,


This ain't what I got. I'll show you that later.

Friday, June 17, 2011

LOCALS ONLY


We've been coming here so long, the pigeons have started to like us again. There was a period a few years back that freaked them out, we'd had enough of the shit and feathers, started to wringing their necks, popping them with one twist. Alls good now, though. They watch our cars when we're in the water.

Wednesday, June 15, 2011

OP WATERCOLORS


Nothing interesting this last week, except for the water color..when the sun finally came out.