THE DESERT

Had to go to Palm Springs over the last few days, moms is really sick. Have a feeling I'll be spending quite a bit of time out there, or we'll have to more her back for treatment. I woke up selfishly, pissed that I couldn't surf, this sunrise made me think, "Could a sunrise like this every morning make me happy." The answer- Fuck NO. This illness has been around a long time, my brother and I have been tending to what we thought was just my mom being needy. Seems like she has known for a long time there was something there, but wanted to keep it from me and my brother, to not be a burden. The key is not being a burden, while trying to keep burdensome shit from people. Otherwise you just look like an asshole.

NEW YEAR

So far.. it's the same shit with a different date. Things are already looking grim for the upcoming months. It's baffling that I can't get a break. My family is healthy, happy, and I got a raise. My mom is really sick, and my step-mother wont die. They both require almost the same care. FUUUCK.. Hopefully soon this blog will be about good shit, stories and waves...

HAPPY HOLIDAYS..

It's been awhile since I've posted, lots of shit happening. Some good, some bad..but, those are stories for another time. I've been looking through old family photos and I had to post this one. It's my mom and dad in happy times. They divorced..but this looks like they were having fun. Central Park NYC-1960.

ENDLESS SUMMER

I recently found these photos while going through boxes, they were from a trip/job, where I was living in Hawaii for about 6 months...fukin sweet. Not only living there, but i was kind of a big shot, calling shots, makin calls, naming names. The coolest thing about it, was I was working with some of the biggest surf legends. (Brian Keaulana, his dad, Buff, Mel Pu'u, Terry Ahue, Dennis Kalama, Brock Little and Derrick Doerner). We were shooting a "ride" film for IMAX so the people in Iowa could get the sensation of riding a wave. The best part of it is, we had it rigged up so that if you dropped in on anyone, while riding this 'imaginary wave," you would get punched in the face by a big Hawaiian...Welcome to Hawaii, Haole.
Photos of Mel- clowning, The Water Patrol wrapping it up. Sunset at Sunset (Derrick and Mel)

THe above is a joke- please don't get pissed...I would do the same thing if you dropped in on me at the spot.

The Coast Guard kicks ass...

Im just looking through my old photos, came across the shots of the Chetco River. It was the calmest bar on the north coast. This day topped out at 25'. The boat is 45' so that looks like easily like 25'-30' face. We used to take the boat out, sit it in the surf line and let it roll over. That was the longest 6 seconds of my life. This was one of the happiest times of my life because I would work 10 hours during the day, then have off the afternoons to surf with another Malibu person that got stationed there. We had some of the best surf in Brooking history (according to the locals). I look at this picture often, imagine going right, bottom turn under the screw.

LADIES & GENTLEMEN, May I present the PRESIDENT OF THE UNITED STATES

That's not really the president, it's my dad and his dad, my grandfather, chilling after a longboard session at Malibu. Looking closely at my dad, he has a little Obama going on..

THIS IS WHAT I DREAM OF,

This ain't what I got. I'll show you that later.