Sunday, July 4, 2010
This was shot by Glen Kennedy (the other Glen Kennedy), still a good surfer, but a better photographer. He was testing out a bunch of things when he was finishing up his year at school in Santa Barbara. Glen stood in hip deep water for a long time to get this one..speedy. Some of the funkiest looks are the best. Especially when it's me.
Didn't surf this morning, throat is razor blades, sinus is so clogged that when I duck dove under a wave yesterday, it felt like I was diving for rings in a 12' pool. Woke up this morning, felt like if it was gonna be like yesterday, there was no reason to go...this confirmed it. http://www.surfline.com/los-angeles/local-news/surfers-getting-sick-from-polluted-la-beaches-_44972
We had a house when I was growing up, in Malibu. ( I know, right)? Anyway, winter of 83 the storm hits the house at about 2:30am, we're sandbagging all night long, talking to LA County Fire, who are saying, "no way, this house is a goner." Bu it keeps up until first light, then this huge set comes in, must've been a 20' set (California set). Takes out the front of the house, all the boards, my dad's piano, which floated out for a bit, then it must've seen the wave of it's life...It catches the next wave and rides it all the way into our neighbor, Becky's front window. The next day, ABC news was interviewing the all the neighbors, ABC asked how bad it was, Becky said, "I knew it was over when I saw Peter's piano come through our window."
The point is, after dawn, my dad kind of shrugged his shoulders, told me that there was nothing left to do, that I should at least go and enjoy the surf....me and a few friends went to Malibu and surfed for three hours with no one out- (except Sikh Surfer- he drove a Benz, always had the turban on in the parking lot...I asked him about the turban one day, but that's a story for another time...) There were postings along the beaches warning that everyone should stay out of the water because of massive sewage line breaks, that we could be contaminated by raw sewage. I took my chance and got lucky- The chance to surf Malibu, when it still had a 1st, 2nd, Kiddie Bowl and a 3rd point, was too much. I still remember those rides.
So, the big point is, WTF? I can surf in known poo, not get sick, then go surf on a random day 27 years later and feel like this?