Sunday, April 29, 2012

Sunday, April 22, 2012


I was going to post a picture of the actual death, but that might freak out the reader. (If there are readers). I was up at the house my dad owned, where she lived after his death. I used to refer to her as my dad's widow. We had a lot of troubles, her spending, complete disregard for peoples respect, condescending, manipulative, etc... I had made my peace with her over the last year and we began to discuss how she was going to die soon, she knew it and wanted to make sure that things were taken care of..they were, and she died on Friday. (a little woo-hoo). SO, the real fun begins of cleaning out all her shit that she thought defined her, which was really all the stuff my dad did, it's what she had done for years. A person told me years ago to, "watch your back around her." I have. Sorry back to the find, I lived in Oregon for about 4 years, some of the best surf of my life. (No, actually it's the worst surf, make sure you never go there). This box comes crashing down and something breaks, doesn't really faze me, cause if I haven't seen it in this long, oh well. What fell out of the box was a beer mug from the Rotary Club (where I was a bartender to make some extra coin), and this picture. Non surfers wonder why surfers can stare at a picture like this for hours... This picture brought back the memories of the Brookings Surf Club- Bix, Jon, Bill, Hansens.. Driving into the lot and seeing tourists looking at a perfect three days of this and nobody wanting to sit on the beach and catch some on film. I finally got a few shots from Steve, who had hurt his ankle on a solid off the top...wahhhhh, "hey take my picture." One picture brings back a few memories stuffed away in a box of 1983.

Wednesday, April 11, 2012


Went to go pick up my new Cooperfish Pig (I'll post some pics later), drove up to Ventura and took the scenic route back..Stopped at Zuma and this shit was going off. Nobody in the water except a few kids riding Softops. Two twin blond Frankenstein looking kids had it to themselves. New board on top of the car, no wax...f-ck.

Tuesday, February 28, 2012

CHOW- then some soba.

Things are starting to settle down a little bit, I got to surf this weekend, which was nice..I feel like when I lie in bed starting at the ceiling, that i'm missing something happening at the beach. Nothing happened, though.

Sunday, January 8, 2012


Had to go to Palm Springs over the last few days, moms is really sick. Have a feeling I'll be spending quite a bit of time out there, or we'll have to more her back for treatment. I woke up selfishly, pissed that I couldn't surf, this sunrise made me think, "Could a sunrise like this every morning make me happy." The answer- Fuck NO. This illness has been around a long time, my brother and I have been tending to what we thought was just my mom being needy. Seems like she has known for a long time there was something there, but wanted to keep it from me and my brother, to not be a burden. The key is not being a burden, while trying to keep burdensome shit from people. Otherwise you just look like an asshole.

Saturday, January 7, 2012


So far.. it's the same shit with a different date. Things are already looking grim for the upcoming months. It's baffling that I can't get a break. My family is healthy, happy, and I got a raise. My mom is really sick, and my step-mother wont die. They both require almost the same care. FUUUCK.. Hopefully soon this blog will be about good shit, stories and waves...