Thursday, September 23, 2010
You meet tons of people during your lifetime, we've all had some crazy jobs. I don't like to talk much, so I don't often find out what people have done in their past, my therapist says, be here now." This is one job I miss, I was blocking out for Matt Archbold- we were surfing Trestles, trying to get some footage for a movie..All I had to do was watch for Matt, Dino or Jodie take off and then fade left, try to push out anyone surfing behind them. Since these guys were South County surfers, they pretty much got respect from the crew there anyway, so it was much more of a free surf for me. That's one of the Condon Brothers shooting from the mat, I could tell he was out of place and not going to shoot, so I took off, Matt yelled at me to go, then he kicked out..I got a good cruiser out of that wave. I got to work with all sorts of surfing legends on that job. Johnny Fain told me the best way to fade out and clear the wave, was to act drunk...completely hammered. It worked, I got into it with this guy and was so blotto, he just shook his head and turned away. Good times.
Wednesday, September 22, 2010
Some other people may have touched on this topic before, so excuse me if so... I'm only a few months into this circle..blogging. Does a surf session that was fun to the surfer, mean it was good? I've walked up the boardwalk many times these last few months and people ask, "How was it?" Honestly, it was shitty...but I had fun...since I've been out of the water a lot this year, most of my sessions have been fun. So, when I respond, "it was fun." Does that mean it was good? Everyone else walks up the boardwalk and into the parking lot grumbling and pissing..saying how crappy it was....yeah, its a given. The real question is, "did you have fun?"
Friday, September 17, 2010
Just a little surf spot trivia... name the place and I'll give you a free rinse off, next time I see you at the beach.
This was sent by a new friend, Daniel. He surfs more days a year than I do..which is crazy, when you find out where he's from.
Saturday, September 11, 2010
I saw this on the wall at the OP bathroom wall. I kept calling and calling and calling, no one answered. I'm always looking for a good longboard, sometimes you really score a gem that's been in the rafters for years. That's what happened with the CON piglet.. I got it from a guy that I know, it used to be his dad's. I sure hope this guy has some good ones...
Friday, September 10, 2010
Some more vintage photos of the old P.O.P pier, some empty surf. These photos were taken by Craig Ferre- I mentioned him in the previous posts- he shapes boards and takes nice photos- has some good stories about being chased out of the ZEPHYR shop, back in the day. I'm finally getting some of my photos scanned and will post soon. PLEASE SHARE YOUR STORIES AND PHOTOS, there'll be no fact checking, so make em up.
While standing in the parking lot (which we do a lot of at P.O.P ), a guy came up to me, asked me about my vintage CON Piglet- almost a pig.. He was a surf shaper, was interested in using the board for a template. (The Con is the red board, Mary's Almond is on the left). Sometimes one is not sure, about the people that freely come up and talk to you..frequently puts you off guard, do you cock your hand back or is this person a nice guy? He's a nice guy, shapes boards, takes photos, got some funny stories. He had a couple of beauties in his car. I posted the photos, boards are nice, priced well. Check out his website.www.surfkingsurfboards.com