Thursday, September 23, 2010


You meet tons of people during your lifetime, we've all had some crazy jobs. I don't like to talk much, so I don't often find out what people have done in their past, my therapist says, be here now." This is one job I miss, I was blocking out for Matt Archbold- we were surfing Trestles, trying to get some footage for a movie..All I had to do was watch for Matt, Dino or Jodie take off and then fade left, try to push out anyone surfing behind them. Since these guys were South County surfers, they pretty much got respect from the crew there anyway, so it was much more of a free surf for me. That's one of the Condon Brothers shooting from the mat, I could tell he was out of place and not going to shoot, so I took off, Matt yelled at me to go, then he kicked out..I got a good cruiser out of that wave. I got to work with all sorts of surfing legends on that job. Johnny Fain told me the best way to fade out and clear the wave, was to act drunk...completely hammered. It worked, I got into it with this guy and was so blotto, he just shook his head and turned away. Good times.

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