Saturday, June 18, 2011

THIS IS WHAT I DREAM OF,


This ain't what I got. I'll show you that later.

Friday, June 17, 2011

LOCALS ONLY


We've been coming here so long, the pigeons have started to like us again. There was a period a few years back that freaked them out, we'd had enough of the shit and feathers, started to wringing their necks, popping them with one twist. Alls good now, though. They watch our cars when we're in the water.

Wednesday, June 15, 2011

OP WATERCOLORS


Nothing interesting this last week, except for the water color..when the sun finally came out.

Wednesday, June 1, 2011

FINALLY


This weekend was perfect..except Sunday, which sucked. Or, actually blew..way to hard to surf and have any fun. THe other two days of the Memorial weekend was great to be back. I actually had one of those thoughts that I would like to do a nice fading cutback and hit the rebound and ride it all the way in..none of that one turn shit.. The first wave I caught was the best of the day, I was ready to get out.. Kevin O got a piece of the final turn on his little camera. That's it. Made my day.