The Coast Guard kicks ass...

Im just looking through my old photos, came across the shots of the Chetco River. It was the calmest bar on the north coast. This day topped out at 25'. The boat is 45' so that looks like easily like 25'-30' face. We used to take the boat out, sit it in the surf line and let it roll over. That was the longest 6 seconds of my life. This was one of the happiest times of my life because I would work 10 hours during the day, then have off the afternoons to surf with another Malibu person that got stationed there. We had some of the best surf in Brooking history (according to the locals). I look at this picture often, imagine going right, bottom turn under the screw.

LADIES & GENTLEMEN, May I present the PRESIDENT OF THE UNITED STATES

That's not really the president, it's my dad and his dad, my grandfather, chilling after a longboard session at Malibu. Looking closely at my dad, he has a little Obama going on..

THIS IS WHAT I DREAM OF,

This ain't what I got. I'll show you that later.

LOCALS ONLY

We've been coming here so long, the pigeons have started to like us again. There was a period a few years back that freaked them out, we'd had enough of the shit and feathers, started to wringing their necks, popping them with one twist. Alls good now, though. They watch our cars when we're in the water.

OP WATERCOLORS

Nothing interesting this last week, except for the water color..when the sun finally came out.

FINALLY

This weekend was perfect..except Sunday, which sucked. Or, actually blew..way to hard to surf and have any fun. THe other two days of the Memorial weekend was great to be back. I actually had one of those thoughts that I would like to do a nice fading cutback and hit the rebound and ride it all the way in..none of that one turn shit.. The first wave I caught was the best of the day, I was ready to get out.. Kevin O got a piece of the final turn on his little camera. That's it. Made my day.

IDLE TIME

So, I was asked by my Dr. to not surf for four weeks so when I go in he can see if the area around my disc is less inflamed..I go in Thursday. My surgery is scheduled for 27May, but I may chicken out, because it's been feeling pretty good. Anyway, I've not had much to say, other than the shitstorm created by my stepmother has taken all my free time. All peace and security that my dad had created is gone. No we have to step in and clean up. So, the picture above is one I found lately, wish it was who my dad had chosen to marry..she looks like she means business. Can't remember which Pointer Sister that is. My jewish dad, with his tough guy mustache..