OVER THERE..

It's been awhile since I've been in the water. Went out this morning, with everyone else, wasn't expecting much. (Didn't get much either). I was sitting with one of the local guys, whose name rhymes with "Parkus", through these long lulls, ponderous long lulls because of the tide. He says to me, "I feel it coming, we've waited long enough and shown our resolve. We are respecting the ocean and I think something is coming." I think, he's dreaming and say with my usual smart ass, negative attitude, " Yeah maybe over there." Meaning it's been coming in, but not to me.....Sure enough, a big (bigger than the smaller shit that was coming in) lump comes in headed right to him...he paddles, gets a really nice ride all the way in. As he comes back out, I say, "should have kept my mouth shut." He just smiles and says, "There's still a need for the naysayers."
I'm really going to try to stop being a naysayer....

Ocean Park 80's

Christmas time, my brother was in Mexico. "Surfs really good here, warm big clean, you gotta come down to this spot." I thought he was out of his mind, I mean who would travel all that way when it's really good at home? "It's really good here too, overhead, empty, not so clean, but ..CLEAN." There used to be only a handful of people in the water, those days are over, but I remember em..Once in awhile I hear about em, usually I miss em, by about an hour.

Sometimes nothing is better than something..

One turn in warm water with a friend is still a hoot. Pulling in to the parking lot, I thought I would have to overstate my desire to catch a small wave on the south shore- Ala Moana Beach Park. But it was an easy deal, lets get wet, middle of the week, no crowd and a camera to mug for. Small day right before the plane trip home.

Oh yeah, I could surf that...

It's just the paddle out that wold kill me. Watched this spot for 6 days, 4 of which were perfect and peeling rights and lefts. As I sat there watching one day, a lady walked by and asked if I was going surfing? I said, "People surf here?" She told me they did but, "In the summer mostly, other than that, the Coast Guard usually pulls them surfers outta the water." She then turned and continued walking her dog, not saying another word....Kinda left me hanging there..? Next summer, I'll find the channel.

ITS ALWAYS GOOD WHEN YOU AIN'T THERE

Most often its slop, sh*t, not even good for a "get wet go out." Especially if there's a chance you'll get sick after. Spend a few days in Texas, it becomes a dream wave. Somethings always happening when you decide not to show up.. Niles, man sized turn, on a kid size wave.

DON'T BELIEVE THE LIES...

It never gets good here, don't bring your friends, the locals are a**holes, the water quality is really bad. Well, some of the things they say are true. Sometimes we get lucky and actually get a good one and even luckier if someone gets a picture of it and then there's proof. The proof is for the people that always ask, "why would you surf that place?"

Sometimes we get a good one, most of the time..not. But it's ours. This is where we can claim our rides, post our pics and complain about the knuckle-heads that drop in and pretend they didn't see you.
Photo by: Casper Brindle- check out his site- www.propixart.com