BACK AND FORTH

Leaving for Hawaii again on the 2nd, going only for 2 days this time. Think I'll spend more time in the air than on the ground. With any luck I'll get a picture of good surf or at least something cool. I'm excited, just ordered a new board from MANDALA-a stubbie quad, check em out at : www.mandalacustomshapes.com Last time I surfed a quad was in 1984, just moved to OREGON, all I had was a 3/2 with no sleeves. Below is the photo from the Chetco River in Brookings, complete with the Coast Guard issue gloves.

Oh yeah, I could surf that...

It's just the paddle out that wold kill me. Watched this spot for 6 days, 4 of which were perfect and peeling rights and lefts. As I sat there watching one day, a lady walked by and asked if I was going surfing? I said, "People surf here?" She told me they did but, "In the summer mostly, other than that, the Coast Guard usually pulls them surfers outta the water." She then turned and continued walking her dog, not saying another word....Kinda left me hanging there..? Next summer, I'll find the channel.