
These past months have been the bottom, hopefully. My bottom is certainly not the bottom that the others in our group have been to. I have been gone so much, Hawaii..have not had one day to surf. And, if I did, the surf was flat. Got here this time on Wednesday the 25th, went to work and the Security Guard who works the regular day shift, says to me, " Shoots, brother Jonas, you got to call me next time before you come, so I'll know when the surf is going to be flat." Classic. I'm like the Brady Bunch tiki.
I did get to take my son to MALIBU last Sunday, he suited up and then caught two waves, while I sat on the beach, nursing my back surgery. Hopefully this weekend...Maybe I can yell at someone too..