THE COVE

This is a killer shot that Craig Ferre sent me..He has a bunch of cool shots that I will post in the next few days. Shit has been so busy that I missed the entire demolition down at the spot. I feel like I missed all the action, winter is always the best time of year there. The waves always seem to get better and the crowd thins out..you don't have to worry about losing your board and de-shinning a 6 year old, then get yelled at by everyone because you lost your board. Not like that ever happens to me.

The last 8 weeks I've had to work weekends and also spent my only free time packing and getting two of my vintage boards shipped out to SWEDEN..whaaat? There's actually really good surf in Sweden. I will post some more photos of that soon too, followed by the story of their travels to the Baltic Sea.

MY MAT

This one's for Surfsister- that's my dad holding the dog (Suki our shih-tzu), me coming in with the mat at the breakwater. It has to be 1976. I did the mat thing, then went "half-man." I started surfing about two years prior to this pic but they were blackballing and I needed to get my grades up before my dad bought me my first board. He's gotta be checking out the booty.

SUMMER GUARD- ASS CHEWING

I lost my board last week, my big Zephyr tandem, went to ride the nose and the tail lifted out of the water and it bounced for 46 yards up onto the shore, right into this little girls shins..took her down. I won't go into the rest of the story, of my greeting on the beach by all the do-gooders, but after it was all settled, I went to pay a little visit to the lifeguard tower to ask WTF he was doing? I had been watching the tower for about 45 minutes, thinking he was going to BLACKBALL because it was a warm day..but the water was cold. There were very few people in the water, but I don't know why there was no designated swim surf area- usually the guards will cone and flag the area for "swimmer safety." Since I fell out in the surfing area and my board bobbed and popped all the way to shore, felt like it wasn't really all my fault- maybe it was. I still went and chewed some ass, because the last thing I wanted to do was hurt someone, but it was a surfing area. It's not like I was surfing in the swimming area.